Return to the Scene of the Crime

After my faux pas with the cheese sampler platter, I decided to go back to that shop and make things right. I went inside and requested my own sampler platter. That was one of the best culinary decisions I have made since arriving in Italy.

The person who I assume is the owner is a bit of a clown. He told me that I was going to get, “the very best” from a “famous shop in Siena”. Then just to be sure I understood, he said, “yum, yum, yum”.

He cut up some salami, roast pork, prosciutto and something I think he called “bull” (I’m pretty sure it wasn’t Rocky Mountain Oysters). Then the cheese guy selected 3 types of cheeses and 2 types of bread. They finished off the platter with a small cup of pesto and some unfiltered olive oil. With that done, the owner didn’t ask if I wanted a glass of wine, he asked what type of wine I wanted. I went with a mid-level Vino Rosso from one of the local vineyards.

I was determined to give away some of my food after my last incident. When a customer came in and was having difficulty deciding, I offered him a piece of my cheese, and after tasting it, he immediately knew what to do. I’m not sure that evens the score, but I felt like I at least tried.

This shop, al Palazzo della Chigiana, is like the Zingerman’s of Siena. They have excellent food and are not afraid to charge for it. The platter is sold by weight rather than product. Anything you get is 50 euro per kg (a little less than $31 / lb) plus wine. For lunch, that gets pretty expensive, but I would gladly do it again.

I can’t share any pictures of this place, although I would like to. The owner is a little eccentric and really does not like pictures taken inside his shop. He has a sign up saying “no photos, no film” in a couple of languages. When someone shows up and tries to take a picture, he pulls out a halogen lamp that he shines in their face and tells them, “is illegal”. The photographer is usually a bit stunned and the customers think it’s pretty funny, but I’m not sure he intends any humor. After my previous experience with stealing his customer’s food, I decided not to press the issue.

When I was finished, I told the owner that it was the best lunch I have had in my month in Italy. He announced that to the other customers in the shop, and then served me a complimentary glass of desert wine.